Reviews

Gambal+Work, Sta. Rita Hills (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Francesca Vineyard 2018 (96 points, $65)

The Gambal is Alex Gambal, an American who moved to Burgundy in 1993, worked for a wine broker in Beaune, attended enology school there, and eventually established his eponymous winery in 1997. Over the ensuing 20+ years, he made an array of excellent Burgundies and established himself as a top small producer. He recently sold his Burgundy winery, but clearly has maintained his love for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with his new endeavor, Gambal-Work. Work is Peter Work, a Dane who moved to Santa Ynez Valley about 20 years ago, purchased land, planted a vineyard in what would become the center of the Sta. Rita AVA and became an advocate for organic and biodynamic farming. The Francesca Vineyard is a cool location because it is wind-swept and located at the Western end of the Sta. Rita AVA, close to the Pacific Ocean. This Pinot Noir reflects the site splendidly. Weighing in at a modest 13.3 percent stated-alcohol, the flavors dance on the palate, giving the Burgundian sensibility of flavor without weight. Captivating woodsy notes lead to a Janus-like combination of savory and raspberry-like flavors, reflecting the magical duality of great Pinot Noir-based wines. An attractive leanness and great acidity reflect the cool site. It’s a brilliant contrast to their Pinot Noir from the Bentrock vineyard and shows that terroir is alive and well in California, if you know how to find it and not smother it with overdone winemaking.

Gambal+Work, Sta. Rita Hills (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bentrock Vineyard 2018 (97 points, $65)

The darker, more mineral profile of Gambal+Work’s Bentrock Pinot Noir is reminiscent of a Burgundy from the Côtes de Nuits. It has the same splendid duality that the Francesca Pinot Noir conveys, but with more black (rather than red) fruit and a deeper, more tar-like mineral component, reflecting a warmer site. Similar to the Francesca, its suave texture and bright acidity makes it hard to resist now. Similarly long, this energetic Pinot Noir, like its stablemate, finishes with the barest hint of bitterness, adding to its appeal. These are two of the most appealing and captivating California Pinot Noirs I’ve tasted in a long time. Grab some friends and try them side by side to experience the magic of terroir yourself.

Gambal+Work, Sta. Rita Hills (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Bentrock Vineyard 2018 (95 Points, $45)

It should come as no surprise that Gambal-Work’s Chardonnay should be outstanding, considering the beauty of Alex Gambal’s white Burgundies. This tightly wound one from the Bentrock vineyard displays a chalky minerality reminiscent of a top Chassagne-Montrachet. Youthful and reticent, it needs time in the glass to express itself. And even then, it is not an opulently styled Chardonnay. The focus here is on minerals, not so much fruit, which is hiding in the background. Its grandeur is apparent in an explosive finish. It is beautifully balanced — nothing sticks out — so a few years in the bottle should be very rewarding. Those looking for oaky richness in their Chardonnay should look elsewhere. Those looking for stylish and expressive ones will be very pleased. These wines are not a gamble. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist, but it’s true).

Gambal+Work, Francesca Vineyard Chardonnay 2016 (95 points, $65) is breath-takingly alive and vibrant.  A stone-y mineral quality dominates and enlivens the palate. Pure and linear, the focus is definitely on the mineral aspect, not on the fruitiness of the grape. It’s a long and refined wine that tingles the palate with each sip. 

Gambal+Work, Bentrock Vineyard Chardonnay 2016 (95 points, $65) A chalk-y mineral component in the wine grabs your attention and nicely offsets the wine’s re-strained fruitiness. It’s a touch riper and rounder than their Francesca Vineyard bottling, but all the elements are beautifully integrated in this wine, whose charms explode in the finish.

If forced to make a comparison with Burgundy (and after all, that’s Gambal’s breeding ground), the Francesca bottling speaks of Puligny Montrachet while the Bentrock evokes Chassagne-Montrachet.